Resin S.O.S

Discussion in 'Resonators Romper Room' started by mondocoyote, Apr 21, 2009.

  1. mondocoyote

    mondocoyote Comment King

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So what am I doing wrong? The plan was a two-part mold. I used a silicon release spray between the layers, but didn't allow it much time to dry. Would this render it useless, and allow the two sides to bond? Too much spray?

    Here's another resin figure I made. The mold was stuck with this one too, but I eventually pried it apart. Sculpts not very smooth, the resins full of bubbles, and I don't own an airbrush. It's all fun though!

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Lalo

    Lalo Mini Boss

    the star fish dude is fucking awesome!
     
  3. cliff

    cliff Addicted

    The first layer definitely needs to be completely cured.
    Not knowing what kind of silicone you're using I'd say make sure it's a "Universal Mold release".
    I usually don't let the mold release dry for any certain amount of time and when I think there's enough I give it another good spray, so I doubt there's too much.
    I've even heard of people using straight vasoline in between layers, just don't get it on the actual piece.
    That silicone looks pretty hard too... softer silicones are better for 2 parters.

    BTW, cool sculpts and hand-paint all the way!!!
     
  4. jcrazy

    jcrazy Comment King

    +1 hell yeah.

    whats this one on the left?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. melek_taus

    melek_taus Mini Boss

    I was wondering the same. They're all cool, but I'd love to see more pics of the one on the left.
    Too bad the starfish guy broke. Looks really good.
     
  6. straightoutta..LOKASH

    straightoutta..LOKASH Side Dealer

    dude, use silicone RTV ( blue in color) for your mold, it will last forever and is super durable. Make sure youre adding the corect amount of side B to the Silicone, too much can cure it to fast and cause the silicone to get brittle. also, if you want to make a "split" or 2 sided mold, use playdo , it can be removed from your sculpt pretty easy.
     
  7. mondocoyote

    mondocoyote Comment King

    Cliff, Lokash, thanks for the help. So play-doh is good? first sculpt I did was with paperclay, embedding it in ceramic clay to make the mold. Unfortunately the moisture of the clay reactivated it. Next sculpt was wax, and I used an oil-based clay.... same problem :oops: Now it's supersculpey with the oil-based clay, that sticks too but is managable. I'll try and hunt out the japanese equivalent of the play-doh for the next attempt.


    Jcrazy, melek_taus, here's the other figure in his half-finished state. I was working with wax, but the texture combined with waxes malleability was just too much for my current skill level. I do like it, so will try again in sculpey.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. melek_taus

    melek_taus Mini Boss

    I like the texture on the body and the sculpt of the head(even unfinished).
    Good stuff.
     
  9. onwi

    onwi Toy Prince

    I use this green "clay" sold at Tokyu Hands for my two part molds, and it seems to work well. It has the texture of playdoh. I don't have the packaging, and can't remember the name, but it comes in a big block with the other clay, and has yellow lettering.
     
  10. cliff

    cliff Addicted

    For claying up 2 part molds I use Kleen Klay. Whatever you use make sure it's sulphur free.
     
  11. uberboy

    uberboy Line of Credit

    www.artstuf.com
    buy quality silicone and your mold will last SOOOOO much longer
     
  12. Grapefruit Goblin

    Grapefruit Goblin Toy Prince

    These guys are so great! I have used the smooth on stuff before. The molds are real sorft and easy to handle.
     
  13. straightoutta..LOKASH

    straightoutta..LOKASH Side Dealer

    I mean to say to use playdo for the first half that you submerge your sculpt in when doing a 2 part mold.
     
  14. mondocoyote

    mondocoyote Comment King

    Don't worry, I understood that. I'll be hitting up Tokyu Hands this weekend for new supplies. I'll post some pictures again if things work out this time.
     
  15. Joe

    Joe Die-Cast

    These are pretty cool B.
    Love the use of the doll eyes.
     
  16. VELOCITRON

    VELOCITRON Comment King

    Yodobashi and Sakuraya have some decent oil-free clays that are good for making bases for latex molds. I also use Vaseline between layers and I haven't had any problems splitting them. Oh yeah, and don't forget to key your halves (i.e. make indentations in one side so the two halves will fit together well).

    Your sculpting is looking good! Love the starfish guy!!!
     
  17. locomoto566

    locomoto566 Super Deformed

    Wow! These are incredible.
     
  18. mondocoyote

    mondocoyote Comment King

    thanks for all the kind words, and to all the people who helped me out.

    This time around I went with the Vaseline, or Waselin as they call it in Japan. Worked perfectly! :D Now to buy something to paint it with.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. jcrazy

    jcrazy Comment King

    awesome!
     
  20. Greasebat

    Greasebat Side Dealer

    looks excellent
     
  21. seanb

    seanb Toy Prince

    Nice, can't wait to see it painted up!
     
  22. uh oh

    uh oh Addicted

    Those look awesome.
    Like Cliff said...Universal Mold Release and sulphur-free clay.
    Use a brush to spread the release and then spray another layer on everything.
    Also sealing your clay helps.
    +1 on the Smooth On products.
     
  23. logang1

    logang1 Mini Boss

    Hey Brian, these look killer....
     
  24. mondocoyote

    mondocoyote Comment King

    [​IMG]

    The ol' rub technique in action. It really does a good job showing off all the imperfections in the mold...but whatever, He's a starfish controlled mutated zombie- a little battle damage is to be expected. :)
     
  25. seanb

    seanb Toy Prince

    That black rub looks badass. Nice spot paint on the eye too.
     

Share This Page