Just saw this on TRE. Could be the answer to the V-color delema. It's not cheap but might give it a try to see what it can do. http://monsterkolor.bigcartel.com/products
Yeah, this is a very cool thing for the um "industry" but I'm a little skeptical that everything has to be clear coated cause I don't want the articulation or playability of the toy to be affected since from what I saw of matts earlier stuff it seemed like none of the joints moved after they were painted but I hope this works out.Ordered a sample set to give it a try.
so ready to paint thru airbrush means they are already thinned out. which in my mind means less bang for your buck. but i've only bought v-color and can't even remember if the prices were comparable to these on KaijuTaro's old site. hey matt! come advertise for your product! I wanna hear the pitch please. tell us the pros of your paint
From what I've seen, the quality of the paints are pretty good. I don't mind spending a few extra for something I can use states-side versus having to order, plus the variety of finishes. I think the price is comparable to vcolor because of the shipping charge (unless you go for SAL instead of EMS). Also, with vcolor, you need to thin it with thinner so that's another item you need to buy. I like that you can mix vcolor and MK together. I only bought the sampler pack cause that's all I can afford right now but I'm really eager to try it out.
What is the v-color dilemma? Toxicity? Unavailability? Legality? All of the above? Just curious. Thanks for any insight.
The minute he said its urethane based I got bummed, because if its anything like HOK I cant go near it without getting a sinus infection. I may order just a bottle to see how it affects me. I would love to have another paint brad state side that I can use. I would love to see Matt come here and speak about it though, its been over a year since he has posted a single word. Start posting again buddy
my main question about pre-thinned airbrush-ready paint: how long will it store before becoming thicker and needing the addition of a thinner agent? it doesn't seem like he sells his thinning agent on the site. i tend to keep paint for awhile, so this is important for me. buy bulk and hoard it, my mom taught me that and i just can't shake it.
From the site it states that using the clear coat is mandatory....what if i don't want a clear coat? Will it just make the paint less vibrant or will it be tacky?
i compiled all of the questions that i saw here and posted them on the MK board, here are matt's replies. 1) how long will it store before becoming thicker and needing the addition of a thinner agent? Depending on your humidity where you live the clear could become thicker after 90 days or so. This is just a mention in case you notice it spray differently from your airbrush. it is just a caution note. I use so much of it at the shop its never an issue. If a hobbyist uses it once in a while then you may see this.then yu would add a little thinner to get it to spray proper through an airbrush. 2) it states that using the clear coat is mandatory....what if i don't want a clear coat? Will it just make the paint less vibrant or will it be tacky? if you dont use clear coat the paint will be dullish in appearence it will not show off really any metallic or special effects. It does not stay tacky or anything. 3) if the paint and clear coat is applied seperately to each part of the figure, will there be any problems with joint movements after its reassembled, just wondering if a clear coat affects the playability of the toy? Clear Coat does not effect the playability of the toy. 99.99% of my own work all of the articulation on any given figure works as it is intended. Most of the figues i paint are painted in the assembled state whenever possible for production reasons. If you take a figure apart to paint it thats fine you just need a heat gun or hot hair dryer to warm up the vinyl so it can be flexible enough to fit into its place. Here is a sample of a Onell figure i did with over 19 points of articulation
